To book your MOT or for more information on our bike services
To help you pass your motorcycle MOT, here are a few things you can check:
First checks are to make sure all the lights are working and secure, check your brake light by holding your hand in front of the unit and work the pedals and levers.
There is a 20% failure rate on lights and bulbs so is one of the most common downfalls of a bike MOT. When doing these checks make sure the horn is functional and loud. Also check your bars and levers for security tightness and condition.
So we are talking about body plastics, seat unit, frame and swing arm. Firstly make sure all parts are secure and not going to fall off.
Check the foot rests to make sure they aren't going anywhere also. If there is a pillion seat fitted to the bike, a second set of foot rests must be present and are tested in the same rules as the rider's. Check the frame for cracks and splits, poor welds and corrosion. Any downfalls in these areas are reasons for failure. Check the swinging arm for play, by pulling the arm forwards and backwards and again look for cracks and corrosion.
You have to check that the exhaust is secure on your bike and that there is no exhaust leak. This is done by feel and also noise. An experienced ear here is handy. An exhaust stamped with ‘not for road use’ is a fail I am afraid, along with if the bike is deemed too noisy.
Bikes registered after 1985 requires a ‘BSAU 193’ stamp. Make sure your fuel cap is functional and seals the tank. Also, to the best of your ability, check the fuel lines are not leaking.
Tyres are the most (in my opinion) important thing on the bike to check. Not hitting the tarmac is high on my priority list, I am sure it is the same with you. So check them well. You are looking for cracks and perishment, bulges and splits. Tread depth is the obvious thing to check. On mopeds the tread has to be visible over the whole tyre; on a motorcycle it has to have 1mm of tread.
Ensure the tyres are seated correctly on the wheel. This is also a good time to check your wheels- you are looking for cracks and security. Also check your mudguards at the same time. It isn't a failure not to have a mudguard, however be careful, once removed brake lines and electrics are free to move around. This would incur a failure.
When checking your brakes you are looking for a good feel on both your lever and pedals. You have to make sure both bring you to an abrupt stop. Check the brake fluid level on both reservoirs, if applicable. Check the brake lines for condition leaks and make sure they aren't twisted.
Check the brake callipers for security and make sure all pins and fixings are present and accounted for. Brake pad material needs to be adequate and discs not badly scored. Give them a pull to make sure they are tight also.
First thing to check is the head set, so sit on your bike and roll forward slowly and grab your front brake. Here, you are checking that there is no movement between your frame and forks. It is also a good time to turn the bars all the way left to right, to make sure you have full movement and there are no tight spots. Check the handle bars are secure and in good condition.
The shock absorbers must have adequate dampening affect and consistent free movement, so bounce the bike up and down on both the bars and seat, to check front and rear. Check your fork seals for leaks and dampness, similarly check your rear shock for leaks and your suspension springs to make sure they are located properly and are not snapped or corroded.